Late war camo is olive base with other colors applied over the olive, with a tight edge between the colors. The barrel would be painted. If the barrel had been replaced it probably would not be in primer. It might just be a solid olive. The paint job would be in good shape because it was only a couple of months old.
get a mini syringe, say 1ml, suck up 0.95 ml water (I use de-ionised, sold in supermarkets for ironing) and 0.05 ml flow improver, shake to mix, add paint to a palette, add water/FI mix a drop at a time, say semi skim milk, use a flat brush. Brushes wonderfully, really flat, and you can recoat in minutes.
The Hand Painted Method. To apply the Olive Green and Red Brown colours by hand it is best to build up the colour slowly; the application of a few light coats is better than a single thick coat. Begin by filling in each area with the intended colour then start building up the colour. The best way to apply the paint is by working your way around
This is a technique I like to use after applying camouflage to my miniatures, and it works especially well with the German three-colour camouflage scheme. It simply involves an extremely light re-application of the base colour – in this case, Middlestone (882) – to both the hull and turret once the two camouflage colours have been applied.
This article will show how to paint a three colour hard-edged camouflage scheme on an armoured vehicle. The example used is Tamiya’s 1/35th M113A2 Armoured Personnel Carrier Desert Version as used in the second Gulf War. This M113 has also been painted in standard Nato three tone camouflage. In this case, the edges where the different colours
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how to paint german camouflage tanks
